Aquamarine and Diamond Ring

The Story & History

Dating to circa 1920, this superb aquamarine and diamond ring captures the emerging modernism of the early Art DecoArt Deco jewellery refers to jewellery made during the 1920s and 1930s, reflecting the wider Art Deco design movement that emerged after the First World War. The style is known... More period. It is a jewel of exceptional presence, centred upon an extraordinary step-cut aquamarine of approximately 20 carats, whose remarkable colour gives the ring its immediate allure.

Aquamarine was particularly admired during the early decades of the 20th century for its limpid blue colour and association with the sea. Its cool, crystalline appearance was perfectly suited to the aesthetic developing after the First World War, when jewellery began to move away from the softer, more elaborate language of the late VictorianVictorian jewellery refers to jewellery made during the reign of Queen Victoria, from 1837 to 1901. It is one of the most varied periods in jewellery history, encompassing romantic, sentimental,... More and EdwardianEdwardian jewellery refers to jewellery made during the reign of King Edward VII, from 1901 to 1910. The period was relatively short but is recognised for its elegant, refined designs... More eras towards cleaner geometry and a more restrained sophistication.

The circa 1920 date places this ring at an especially interesting moment in that transitionTransitional Cut is an antique style of diamond cutting that developed during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as diamond cutting evolved from the Old European Cut towards the... More. Its architectural outline and linear diamond shoulders anticipate the fully developed Art Deco style, whilst retaining the elegance and craftsmanship associated with fine jewellery of the period.

Above all, this is a jewel defined by its extraordinary centre stone. At approximately 20 carats, the aquamarine is remarkable not merely for its size but for its superb colour. Large aquamarines of this quality and presence have a distinctive ability to command attention without the visual weight associated with darker gemstones, giving the ring an almost luminous character.

Design & Details

The design is beautifully focused on the central aquamarine, fashioned in a substantial step cut that allows its colour to take centre stage. The broad, clean facets characteristic of a step cut create a sophisticated interplay of light across the stone, while allowing the exceptional body colour to remain clearly visible.

The aquamarine is framed by diamond-set shoulders incorporating elegant baguette-cut diamonds. Their elongated, linear form introduces a distinctly geometric quality to the composition and creates a pleasing transition between the substantial central stone and the shank.

Baguette diamonds became an important element of the emerging Art Deco vocabulary, prized for their sleek lines and architectural appearance. Here they provide a particularly effective contrast to the broad expanse of the aquamarine: rather than competing with the centre stone, the diamonds draw the eye inwards and reinforce its impressive scale.

The overall effect is one of quiet grandeur. There is little unnecessary ornament; instead, the ring relies upon proportion, colour, geometry and the inherent beauty of its gemstones. This restraint is one of the qualities that makes early Art Deco jewellery so enduring.

The aquamarine’s exceptional size gives the jewel considerable presence on the hand, whilst its pale blue colour retains a sense of lightness and refinement.

Styling & Wearability

A ring of this character is wonderfully versatile for the collector who appreciates jewellery with genuine individuality. Its architectural design lends itself naturally to evening dressing, where the aquamarine’s cool blue colour can provide an elegant focal point against darker fabrics.

Equally, the stone’s fresh colour allows it to be worn in a more contemporary way. Aquamarine has an effortless affinity with white, navy, charcoal and neutral tones, while the clean geometric lines of the setting sit comfortably alongside modern tailoring and minimalist dress.

The substantial scale of the centre stone makes this a natural statement ring, but its restrained Art Deco design prevents it from feeling overly elaborate. It would be particularly compelling worn alone, allowing the aquamarine to command the hand, or paired thoughtfully with other linear or geometric jewels from the Art Deco period.

For the collector, its appeal lies in the combination of scale, colour and period design: a jewel that is immediately impressive, yet sophisticated enough to reward close examination.