Art Deco jewellery refers to jewellery made during the 1920s and 1930s, reflecting the wider Art Deco design movement that emerged after the First World War. The style is known for its bold geometry, strong symmetry and sophisticated use of colour.
Art Deco jewellery marked a significant departure from the flowing, naturalistic designs of the preceding Art Nouveau and Edwardian periods. Jewellers embraced geometric shapes, straight lines, stepped forms, circles, squares and repeating patterns, often creating highly structured and architectural designs.
Platinum was particularly important during the Art Deco period, allowing jewellers to create strong yet relatively delicate settings. White gold was also increasingly used. Diamonds were often combined with calibre-cut sapphires, emeralds and rubies, as well as onyx and other contrasting materials. The combination of diamonds with vivid coloured gemstones and black onyx created the distinctive high-contrast appearance associated with Art Deco jewellery.
Diamond cutting also evolved during this period. Old European cuts and transitional cuts were common, while increasingly sophisticated cutting techniques eventually led towards the modern brilliant cut. Millegrain detailing, pierced platinum work and carefully arranged pavé-set diamonds were frequently used to emphasise geometric designs.
Art Deco jewellery was influenced by a wide range of sources, including Cubism, modern architecture, ancient Egyptian and Indian motifs, and the machine age. Its designs can range from restrained geometric rings to elaborate bracelets, brooches, earrings and necklaces.
At Weldons, we select Art Deco jewellery for its design, craftsmanship, quality and historical character, with each piece individually assessed and described.
Period: Approximately 1920–1939
Typical materials: Platinum, white gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies and onyx
Characteristic features: Geometric designs, symmetry, strong contrasts, calibre-cut gemstones, pavé diamonds, millegrain detailing and fine platinum work
