Victorian jewellery refers to jewellery made during the reign of Queen Victoria, from 1837 to 1901. It is one of the most varied periods in jewellery history, encompassing romantic, sentimental, historicist, mourning and increasingly innovative designs.
The Victorian period is often divided into three broad phases. Early Victorian or Romantic jewellery (1837–1861) favoured naturalistic and sentimental motifs such as flowers, serpents, hearts and hands, with gold, seed pearls, coral, turquoise, garnets and diamonds among the popular materials. Mid-Victorian or Grand jewellery (approximately 1861–1885) became heavier and more dramatic, with mourning jewellery, jet, black enamel and onyx gaining particular prominence following the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Late Victorian or Aesthetic jewellery (approximately 1885–1901) generally became lighter and more delicate, with diamonds, pearls, stars, crescents and nature-inspired designs becoming popular.
Victorian jewellers used a wide variety of techniques and materials. Yellow gold and silver were particularly important, while diamonds were increasingly available during the nineteenth century and were often found in old mine and other hand-cut styles. Earlier Victorian pieces may feature closed-back settings, while later jewellery increasingly reflects advances in manufacturing and jewellery production.
Victorian jewellery is especially notable for the meaning attached to many designs. Serpents could represent eternal love, flowers carried particular sentiments, and lockets and mourning jewels could commemorate loved ones. This combination of craftsmanship, symbolism and changing fashion makes Victorian jewellery an exceptionally rich and diverse period for collectors.
At Weldons, we select Victorian jewellery for its quality, character, craftsmanship and historical interest, with each piece individually assessed and described.
Period: 1837–1901
Typical materials: Gold, silver, diamonds, pearls, garnets, turquoise, jet and other coloured gemstones
Characteristic features: Romantic and naturalistic motifs, sentimental symbolism, old-cut diamonds, mourning jewellery, intricate goldwork and changing styles throughout the period
