The Story & History
An exceptionally rare and highly unusual piece of 1890s jewellery, this magnificent diamond hair clip offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of late VictorianVictorian jewellery refers to jewellery made during the reign of Queen Victoria, from 1837 to 1901. It is one of the most varied periods in jewellery history, encompassing romantic, sentimental,... More evening dress.
Created in the final decade of the 19th century, it was designed specifically to be worn at the back of the head, where elaborate jewelled hair ornaments formed an important part of formal coiffure. During the Victorian period, fashionable hairstyles became increasingly elaborate, providing jewellers with an opportunity to create spectacular ornaments intended to be seen amongst the hair.
This piece is particularly remarkable for its combination of a substantial diamond-set ornament with a tortoiseshell comb. At its centre is an impressive 1.40-carat diamond, whilst the total diamond weight is approximately 5 carats, giving the jewel considerable presence and brilliance.
Late Victorian diamond hair ornaments of this scale are exceptionally uncommon today. Many were subsequently dismantled, with their diamonds removed and incorporated into more fashionable jewels. A surviving example retaining its distinctive comb construction is therefore of particular interest to collectors of antique jewellery.
The piece is a wonderful expression of the opulence of the 1890s, when diamonds were increasingly central to fashionable evening jewellery. Its combination of precious stones, natural tortoiseshell and elaborate construction makes it both a significant jewel and an evocative surviving object from the period.
Design & Details
The principal feature is the substantial 1.40-carat centre diamond, surrounded by additional diamonds which bring the total diamond weight to approximately 5 carats.
The abundance of diamonds gives the ornament a spectacular quality, particularly when worn against the darker tones of the hair. The stones would have caught and reflected candlelight and later electric light, making such jewellery especially effective for evening occasions.
The diamond-set element is mounted in conjunction with a tortoiseshell comb, providing the practical means by which the ornament was secured within the hair. Tortoiseshell was valued during the period for its warm, translucent colouring and natural variation, and its use here provides a beautiful contrast to the brilliance of the diamonds.
The intended position at the back of the head is an important aspect of the design. Rather than being conceived as a conventional brooch or pendant, the jewel was created as part of the fashionable coiffure, where it would form a glittering focal point when viewed from behind.
The combination of function and ornament is characteristic of fine Victorian hair jewellery. The comb provides the structure and practicality, whilst the diamonds transform it into an important jewel.
Its survival is particularly noteworthy. Hair ornaments were among the forms of antique jewellery most susceptible to alteration or dismantling, making an elaborate 1890s example such as this a fascinating rarity for the modern collector.
Styling & Wearability
This extraordinary jewel can still be worn in the manner for which it was originally conceived, making it particularly exciting for the collector who appreciates jewellery with a strong sense of history.
Placed at the back of the head, it would be spectacular with a chignon, swept-back hair or an elaborate evening hairstyle. The diamonds would provide a dramatic flash of brilliance, while the tortoiseshell comb would remain integrated within the hair.
It would make an unforgettable accessory for a wedding, formal dinner, black-tie occasion or other significant event. Equally, its rarity and historical interest mean that it can be appreciated as an important collector’s piece even when not being worn.
There is something especially romantic about jewellery designed for the hair. Unlike a conventional ring or necklace, its purpose was intrinsically connected to the fashions and rituals of its era. This piece therefore offers not only approximately 5 carats of diamonds, but a tangible connection to the way an elegant woman might have dressed for an evening occasion in the 1890s.















