Brilliant Cut

Brilliant Cut is a style of diamond cutting designed to maximise the return of light through the stone and create a bright, lively appearance. The modern round brilliant cut is the best-known example, with a carefully arranged pattern of facets designed to produce brilliance, fire and scintillation.

The development of brilliant cutting took place gradually from the late nineteenth century onwards as diamond-cutting techniques and understanding of light performance improved. Earlier forms, including the Old European Cut and Transitional Cut, were important stages in this development.

A modern round brilliant diamond typically has 57 or 58 facets, depending on whether the culet is counted. It generally has a round outline, a relatively larger table and proportions designed to return light through the crown of the diamond. Modern brilliant cuts are produced to much more precise proportions than antique hand-cut diamonds.

Brilliant Cut should not be confused with Old European Cut. An Old European Cut is an antique, hand-cut style with a high crown, small table, deep pavilion, large facets and a prominent culet. A modern brilliant cut is generally more precisely proportioned and engineered for strong light return. Transitional Cuts occupy an important position between the two.

Brilliant-style faceting is not limited to round diamonds. Cushion, oval, pear, marquise and other shapes can also be cut using brilliant-style facet arrangements. The term therefore describes the faceting style, rather than necessarily the overall shape of the diamond.

At Weldons, brilliant-cut diamonds are considered alongside the age, craftsmanship, proportions and character of the individual jewel. In antique and vintage jewellery, the distinction between modern brilliant cuts and earlier historical cutting styles can be particularly important when describing a diamond accurately.

Purpose: To maximise light return, brilliance and scintillation
Development: Particularly from the late 19th century onwards
Modern example: Round Brilliant Cut
Typical modern round brilliant: 57 or 58 facets
Historical predecessors: Old European Cut and Transitional Cut
Characteristic appearance: Bright brilliance, flashes of fire and lively scintillation

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