Cabochon

Cabochon refers to a gemstone that has been shaped and polished with a smooth, rounded surface rather than cut with facets. The upper surface is usually domed, while the underside may be flat or slightly curved.

Cabochon-cut gemstones have been used in jewellery for centuries and are particularly important in antique jewellery, where they were commonly used for coloured gemstones such as opal, sapphire, ruby, turquoise, garnet, moonstone and amethyst.

Unlike faceted gemstones, cabochons do not rely on facets to reflect light. Their appeal comes from the colour, translucency, pattern and natural character of the material. This is particularly effective with gemstones that display phenomena such as play-of-colour, chatoyancy, asterism or adularescence, which can be enhanced by a smooth domed surface.

The term cabochon describes the style of cutting rather than a particular gemstone. A sapphire, ruby, opal or moonstone can all be cut as a cabochon. The shape may be oval, round, pear-shaped or another outline, provided the surface is predominantly smooth and unfaceted.

Cabochons are especially characteristic of certain nineteenth- and early twentieth-century jewellery styles. They were used extensively in Victorian jewellery and became particularly expressive in Art Nouveau jewellery, where colourful, organic gemstones were often valued for their visual qualities rather than simply their brilliance.

Cabochon should not be confused with a faceted cut. Faceted gemstones have multiple flat surfaces designed to reflect and refract light, while a cabochon has a smooth polished surface. Some gemstones may also combine cabochon and faceted areas.

At Weldons, cabochon gemstones are appreciated for their colour, natural character, optical phenomena and relationship to the design of the individual jewel.

Cut: Smooth, unfaceted and generally domed
Common shapes: Oval, round, pear and other outlines
Common gemstones: Opal, sapphire, ruby, turquoise, moonstone and garnet
Historical use: Particularly important in antique and Victorian jewellery
Characteristic appearance: Emphasis on colour, translucency, pattern and natural character rather than faceted brilliance

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