Pavé is a jewellery setting technique in which numerous small gemstones, most commonly diamonds, are set closely together across a surface so that very little of the underlying metal is visible. The word comes from the French pavé, meaning “paved”, referring to the appearance of a surface covered with closely set stones.
In a pavé setting, small stones are held in place by tiny beads or grains of metal raised from the surrounding surface. The diamonds are usually arranged in regular rows, creating a continuous field of sparkle rather than displaying each stone as an individual feature.
Pavé became particularly important in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century jewellery and is frequently found in Edwardian, Belle Époque and Art Deco pieces. It was especially effective when combined with platinum, whose strength allowed jewellers to create fine settings with very small amounts of visible metal.
Pavé is closely associated with millegrain work, although the terms describe different techniques. Millegrain refers to the tiny beads of metal used as decorative edging or, in some settings, to help secure gemstones. Pavé describes the overall arrangement of closely set stones.
Pavé should also be distinguished from channel setting, in which gemstones are held between two continuous metal rails, and claw setting, where individual stones are secured by projecting claws or prongs.
At Weldons, pavé-set diamonds are particularly characteristic of finely detailed antique and vintage jewellery, where the close arrangement of small stones can create an impressive surface of light while allowing the design and craftsmanship of the setting to remain delicate.
Technique: Closely set gemstones covering a surface
Common stones: Small diamonds
Typical periods: Edwardian, Belle Époque and Art Deco
Common material: Platinum, gold
Characteristic appearance: Continuous surface of sparkle with minimal visible metal
