Openwork

Openwork refers to a jewellery-making technique in which areas of metal are deliberately pierced, cut away or constructed with spaces between the elements, creating an open or lace-like appearance. It can be used both as a structural technique and as an important decorative feature.

Openwork has been used throughout the history of jewellery and is particularly characteristic of finely crafted Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco pieces. The precise style varies considerably between periods, from intricate scrolling and floral patterns to highly geometric designs.

In Edwardian and Belle Époque jewellery, openwork was often combined with platinum and fine millegrain detailing to create delicate, almost lace-like settings. Art Deco jewellers used openwork in a more geometric manner, incorporating symmetrical shapes, stepped forms and pierced platinum designs.

Openwork can also allow more light to reach gemstones by reducing the amount of metal surrounding them. In antique jewellery, however, its purpose is often equally aesthetic, forming an integral part of the design rather than simply being a way of increasing the apparent brilliance of a stone.

Openwork should not be confused with Repoussé or Chasing. Repoussé and chasing are techniques used to create relief and decoration in metal, whereas openwork involves creating actual openings or spaces within the metalwork.

At Weldons, openwork is particularly valued for the craftsmanship and delicacy it can bring to antique and vintage jewellery, with the pattern, balance and quality of the pierced metalwork contributing significantly to the character of the piece.

Technique: Piercing or cutting away areas of metal to create openings
Typical periods: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Belle Époque and Art Deco
Common materials: Gold, silver and platinum
Characteristic appearance: Delicate, airy or architectural metalwork with intentional open spaces