Claw Setting

Claw Setting is a jewellery setting in which a gemstone is secured by small metal claws, also known as prongs, that extend over the edge of the stone. The claws hold the gemstone in place while leaving much of its surface exposed.

Claw settings became increasingly important during the nineteenth century as improvements in jewellery manufacture and diamond cutting allowed gemstones to be displayed more openly. They are particularly common in Victorian, Edwardian and twentieth-century jewellery, including engagement rings and diamond cluster rings.

The number and arrangement of claws can vary according to the size, shape and design of the gemstone. Round diamonds may commonly be held by four or six claws, while other shapes can require different arrangements. The claws can also form part of the decorative character of an antique jewel.

One advantage of a claw setting is that it allows considerable light to reach the gemstone while exposing more of its surface. This can be particularly effective with diamonds and other transparent gemstones where brilliance and sparkle are important.

Claw Setting should not be confused with Bezel Setting. A bezel surrounds the gemstone with a continuous rim of metal, whereas a claw setting uses individual points of metal to hold the stone. Claw settings therefore generally leave more of the gemstone visible.

Claw settings require careful maintenance because the individual claws can become worn, bent or damaged over time. In antique jewellery, the condition of the claws is therefore an important part of assessing the security and overall condition of the piece.

At Weldons, claw-set gemstones are assessed for the security and condition of the setting as well as the quality and character of the individual stone.

Also known as: Prong Setting
Setting: Individual metal claws or prongs securing the gemstone
Common periods: Victorian, Edwardian and later jewellery
Advantages: Exposes more of the gemstone and allows light to enter from multiple directions
Characteristic appearance: Visible gemstone held by a small number of metal claws

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Weldons

We love jewellery!! Weldons is a fourth generation family jewellers with over 100 years experience in supplying top grade certificated diamonds and rare and unusual pieces of jewellery for every occasion. We specialise in one-off pieces of vintage and estate jewellery, engagement rings and anniversary rings. We also stock one of the widest ranges of antique Irish silver in the world, from rare 17th and 18th century pieces to modern giftware and tableware.