Plique à jour

Plique-à-jour is a sophisticated enamel technique in which translucent enamel is applied within open cells in a metal framework.

Unlike conventional enamel, there is no solid metal backing beneath the enamel. Light can therefore pass through the finished surface, producing an effect similar to stained glass.

The technique became particularly associated with Art Nouveau jewellery, where it was used to create delicate flowers, leaves, insects, wings and other naturalistic forms.

Because the enamel is unsupported, plique-à-jour is technically demanding and can be vulnerable to damage. Surviving examples are therefore particularly interesting to collectors and are best handled with care.

Period: Particularly late 19th and early 20th centuries
Typical materials: Gold, silver and enamel
Characteristic feature: Translucent enamel with a stained-glass effect

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