Foiling is a historical jewellery technique in which a reflective layer is placed behind a gemstone to enhance its colour and appearance.
The technique was particularly important in Georgian jewellery, where closed-back settings and foil-backed gemstones were commonly used. Reflective foil could make coloured gemstones appear richer and could increase the visual impact of diamonds and other stones, particularly in candlelight.
Different coloured foils could also be used to influence the apparent colour of a gemstone. The technique allowed jewellers to enhance the visual effect of stones without changing the gemstones themselves.
Because the foil is positioned behind the gemstone, changes or deterioration to the backing can affect the appearance of an antique jewel. Careful examination is therefore important when assessing antique jewellery with foil-backed stones.
Period: Particularly Georgian and earlier jewellery
Typical materials: Reflective metal foil behind gemstones
Characteristic feature: Reflective backing used to enhance colour and appearance
